Braj's Sacred Groves: The Twelve Forests (Dwadash Van)

Van (forest)	Today's village — The leela
Madhuvan	Maholi — Dhruva's tapasya; the demon Madhu
Talvan	Tarsi — Balarama slays Dhenukasura
Kumudvan	- — The lotus-pond grove
Bahulavan	Bati — The truthful cow Bahula
Kamyavan (Kaman)	Kaman (Raj.) — "Fulfiller of desires"; kunds & shrines
Khadiravan	- — A grove of the leela
Vrindavan

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What are the twelve forests of Braj?

The twelve forests (Dwadash Van) are the sacred groves around which Braj's geography is organised: Madhuvan, Talvan, Kumudvan, Bahulavan, Kamyavan, Khadiravan, Vrindavan, Bhadravan, Bhandirvan, Belvan, Lohvan and Mahavan. Each is a grove of Krishna's leela. The lists vary across texts and most "vans" today are settlements and kund-clusters rather than forests - the name preserves the memory.

What does Dwadash Van mean?

Dwadash Van means "the twelve forests" (dwadash = twelve, van = forest). It is the traditional set of twelve sacred groves that organise Braj's holy geography, each tied to a leela of Krishna. Alongside them are the upvans (sub-forests), whose lists differ by text. Together they form the forest-land of Krishna's childhood and youth, threaded by the great parikrama.

Are the vans of Braj still forests?

Honestly, mostly no - the great woods are largely gone and most of the "vans" today are settlements and kund-clusters, not forests. The name preserves the memory of the grove that was. A good guide tells you this plainly rather than calling a dusty village a "forest." We revere the vans for their leelas while grieving the lost groves - and some saints now work to replant Braj's forests.

Why do the lists of the twelve vans vary?

Because different texts and traditions give the twelve (and the sub-forests) differently - there is no single fixed list. A good Brajwasi agrees gracefully when a scholar's list differs from his own, rather than insisting on one. What matters is not a rigid roster but the truth they express: that Braj is a land of sacred groves, each holding a leela of Krishna.

Who is Vrinda Devi?

Vrinda Devi is tulsi (holy basil) personified - the guardian-goddess of the grove and the arranger of Radha and Krishna's meetings. Vrindavan is named for her: not after a man or king, but after a plant-goddess who tends the lovers' grove. In Braj, tulsi is a deity, worshipped in the tulsi-chaura, worn as tulsi-mala and married to Krishna each year at Tulsi Vivah.

What is Madhuvan?

Madhuvan, today the village of Maholi, is one of the twelve forests - named for the demon Madhu and the place of Dhruva's tapasya, the boy-sage's great penance. It is among the Mathura-side vans, now a village with its shrine and tank. The leela of Dhruva's devotion and the slaying of Madhu live on in its name and local telling.

What is Talvan?

Talvan, today Tarsi, is one of the twelve forests - the palm-grove (tal) where Balarama slew Dhenukasura, the donkey-demon who guarded its sweet fruit and barred the cowherds. Balarama hurled him into the palm-trees, freeing the grove. It is one of the Mathura-side vans, now a village, its leela of Balarama's strength preserved in its name.

What is Bahulavan?

Bahulavan, today Bati, is one of the twelve forests - named for Bahula, the truthful cow saved by Krishna. In the leela, the cow Bahula, caught by a lion (or tiger), promised to return after feeding her calf and kept her word; Krishna, moved by her truthfulness, saved her. It is a beloved cow-story of Braj, dear to the cowherd Lord, kept in this van's name.

What is Bhandirvan?

Bhandirvan is one of the twelve forests, famed for the colossal Bhandir vat - an enormous ancient banyan - and as the grove of Shridama, Krishna's cowherd-friend and the Venu Kup well. It also carries a contested tradition, dear to some sampradayas, that Brahma secretly married Radha and Krishna here. It is among the most storied of the vans.

Did Radha and Krishna marry at Bhandirvan?

By a tradition held in the Garga-Samhita and some sampradayas, yes - Brahma himself is said to have secretly married Radha and Krishna at Bhandirvan. But this is cherished sampradaya material that varies: some traditions hold the divine marriage dear, others do not emphasise it. I present it honestly as a belief that varies, not a settled fact. To the devotee for whom it is precious, Bhandirvan is the place of their wedding.

What is the Bhandir vat?

The Bhandir vat is the colossal, ancient banyan (vat) tree that gives Bhandirvan its name and glory. Such great banyans, with their spreading aerial roots, are revered across India and this one is bound to the leelas of Krishna and his friend Shridama. It is the natural centrepiece of the grove, a living emblem of Bhandirvan's antiquity and sanctity.

What is Kamyavan?

Kamyavan, today the town of Kaman across the Rajasthan border, is one of the twelve forests - its name meaning "the fulfiller of desires" (kamya). It is a dense cluster of kunds and shrines, with Vimal Kund, Dharm Kund and Kameshwar Mahadev and a major node of the Adhik Maas parikrama. Pilgrims come to its desire-granting waters; it is remote, needing planning to reach.

What is at Kaman (Kamyavan)?

Kaman holds Vimal Kund (the great tank) and Dharm Kund, the guardian Shiva shrine Kameshwar Mahadev, a Charan Pahari (Krishna's footprints) and its own 84-pillared Chaurasi Khamba. It is a dense cluster of kunds and shrines, "the fulfiller of desires," and a major Adhik Maas parikrama node. Note: its Chaurasi Khamba is distinct from Mahavan's and its Charan Pahari one of several across Braj.

Is Kaman's Chaurasi Khamba the same as Mahavan's?

No - they are two different 84-pillared halls in two different vans and one must not confuse them. Mahavan's Chaurasi Khamba is Nanda Bhavan, the house of Krishna's infancy; Kaman's is a separate hall in Kamyavan, across the Rajasthan border. When you hear "Chaurasi Khamba," ask which - a good Brajwasi keeps them apart.

What is Belvan?

Belvan is one of the twelve forests - the grove of Lakshmi's tapasya, where the goddess of fortune did penance, longing to join Krishna's Raas. Its name comes from the bel (wood-apple) tree. Like the other southern vans, it is now largely a settlement, its leela of Lakshmi's devotion preserved in its name and tradition. It speaks of the longing even the goddess of fortune felt for the Raas.

What is Lohvan?

Lohvan is one of the twelve forests - the grove of the demon Lohajangha, slain by Krishna. It lies on the southern arc of the vans, now largely a settlement. Its name keeps the memory of the demon and his defeat, one more of the leela-groves that the great parikrama threads on its way around Braj.

What is Raman Reti?

Raman Reti is the soft, silver sand near Gokul where, in the leela, the infants Krishna and Balarama crawled and played. Pilgrims roll in its sand in devotion and a deer sanctuary and ashrams adjoin it. It is one of the gentlest, most beloved of Braj's sacred grounds, a place of the infancy-leelas on the Gokul side, often visited with Mahavan and Gokul.

What is Gahvar Van?

Gahvar Van (Gahvarvan) is Radha's beloved pleasure-grove, below Barsana's hills, where she played with her sakhis. It is the seat of the Maan Mandir Seva Sansthan and near the cave of the maan-leela. A dense, sacred grove, it is among the loveliest of Braj's surviving green sites, pairing naturally with the Barsana hills.

What is Kokila Van?

Kokila Van is the "cuckoo forest" near Nandgaon - kokila meaning the cuckoo, whose song fills the grove. Today it is famous as Kokilavan Shani Dev Dham, where, in tradition, Krishna granted darshan to Shani and blessed those who worship Shani here. It is one of Braj's beloved groves, drawing those troubled by Shani.

Why is Vrindavan one of the twelve forests?

Because Vrindavan, the grove of the Raas named for Vrinda Devi, is itself one of the Dwadash Van - the most beloved of the twelve. Its forests gave way over the centuries to the temple-town we know, but it remains, in its name and its surviving groves like Nidhivan and Seva Kunj, the supreme forest of Krishna's youth and the Raas. It is the devotional heart of all the vans.

How are the vans connected to the 84-Kos parikrama?

The 84-Kos (Chaurasi Kos) parikrama - the great 250 km circuit - threads the twelve forests and dozens of leela-villages, stringing the groves like beads. To walk it is to honour each van in turn. The Braj 84-Kos Yatra is how a pilgrim honours the whole forest-land of Krishna, the vans being its essential stations.

What does "84 Kos" mean?

"84 Kos" (Chaurasi Kos) names the great 250 km circuit of Braj - the "84" recalling the 84 lakh species of birth through which the soul passes, the parikrama being a release from that cycle. A kos is a non-fixed old unit (2-3.5 km), so the circuit is "about 250 km, give or take." The parikrama threads the twelve vans and dozens of leela-villages around the whole dham.

Can I visit all twelve vans in one trip?

Truly visiting all twelve means walking or driving the 84-Kos parikrama over several days, as they are scattered across the whole dham, some remote into Rajasthan. A short trip can take in the nearer or more famous vans (Vrindavan, Mahavan and a few villages). For the full twelve, plan the multi-day circuit with a guide who knows the routes and the remote groves.

Are the vans suitable for elderly pilgrims?

The famous vans (Vrindavan, Mahavan) and the nearer villages are manageable, but the full 84-Kos circuit and the remote groves (Kaman, the outer nodes) are demanding. Elderly pilgrims are best served by the accessible vans or a vehicle parikrama, pacing it and avoiding the midday heat. A guide can plan a gentle route honouring the key groves without the hardship of the full walk.

What festivals connect to the vans?

The vans are chiefly parikrama destinations rather than festival temples, though Tulsi Vivah (Kartik) honours Vrinda Devi of the grove and the Adhik Maas (leap-month) parikrama especially draws pilgrims to Kaman and the circuit. The great occasion of the vans is the 84-Kos Yatra itself.

What is the Adhik Maas parikrama?

Adhik Maas is the lunar "leap-month" that falls every few years, held especially holy - and during it, the Braj parikrama, above all to Kaman (Kamyavan), draws great crowds. Pilgrims walk the circuit of the vans for the special merit of the holy month. Kaman, the "fulfiller of desires," is a major Adhik Maas node.

Why are most of Braj's forests gone?

Centuries of settlement, agriculture, grazing and, in recent times, population pressure and development have stripped most of Braj's ancient forests. What were groves are now villages and farmland; the names endure where the trees do not. It is a real ecological loss, grieved by Brajwasis - and some, like the saints of Maan Mandir, now work to protect and replant the sacred hills and groves.

Can the forests of Braj be restored?

Efforts are underway - notably by the Maan Mandir Seva Sansthan, which has protected thousands of hectares of hill-land and worked to turn it back into reserve forest. For a tradition that holds Braj's groves sacred, replanting them is holy work. Pilgrims who love the vans can support such genuine restoration, honouring the forests not only in memory but in renewal.

Don't confuse the several Charan Paharis - what does that mean?

A Charan Pahari is a "hill of footprints," where Krishna's footprints (or cow-hoof marks) are shown in the rock. But there are several across Braj - at Kaman, at Nandgaon and elsewhere - and they are distinct. A good Brajwasi keeps them apart rather than blurring them into one, just as he distinguishes the two Chaurasi Khambas and the two Gokuls.

What is the dress code for visiting the vans?

Modest, respectful dress, as for any sacred place; footwear is removed at the shrines. For the parikrama and the remote groves, wear comfortable, modest clothing and sturdy footwear and dress for the heat and dust. Carry water and sun protection. The vans are rural and devotional; simple, respectful dress suits them best.

Is it safe to visit the remote vans?

The famous and nearer vans are straightforward; the remote ones (Kaman, the outer nodes) need planning - arrange transport, water and ideally a known guide, as the far villages and the Punchari-end are genuinely remote. Take the usual care with heat, hydration and valuables. With sensible planning and local guidance, the remote groves are safe and deeply rewarding to reach.

Where should I stay to visit the vans?

For the famous vans, base in Mathura, Vrindavan or Govardhan; for the Barsana-Nandgaon groves, the western-Braj towns; for Kaman, plan a longer trip into Rajasthan. The full parikrama is supported by dharamshalas and halts along the route. Book ahead for Adhik Maas and the festival seasons, when the parikrama routes and kund-towns fill.

What food is available around the vans?

The van-villages and parikrama halts offer simple Braj fare - kachori, sabzi, peda, lassi - and the parikrama provides for yatris along the route. Favour busy, freshly-cooking stalls, carry water for the remote stretches and drink sealed bottled water. The vans are rural; keep your food simple and your water safe, especially on the longer parikrama days.

How is Mahavan one of the vans?

Mahavan - "the great forest" (maha-van) - is one of the twelve, the scriptural infancy-Gokul where Krishna's baby-leelas unfolded, home of Chaurasi Khamba, Nanda Bhavan. Its name preserves the memory of the vast forest that was Nanda's homestead. With Vrindavan, it is one of the two greatest of the vans - the infancy and the youth of Krishna's story.

Does Experience My India arrange a vans or parikrama tour?

Yes - Experience My India is a Braj-based operator with a born-Brajwasi guide who knows the leela of each grove and the routes to the famous and remote vans and can plan a parikrama or a tour of the key forests. Ask on WhatsApp or see the Braj 84-Kos Yatra. Book only through official channels.

What is Kumudvan?

Kumudvan is one of the twelve forests - the lotus-pond grove, named for the kumud (night-lotus) that bloomed in its waters. It is among the Mathura-side vans, a grove of ponds and flowers in the leela-landscape. Like the others, it is now largely a settlement with its sacred tank, the memory of its lotus-waters preserved in its name and local tradition.

What is Khadiravan?

Khadiravan is one of the twelve forests, named for the khadira (acacia) tree. It lies among the vans of Braj, a grove of the leela now largely a settlement. Its name keeps the memory of the acacia-wood that once stood there, one more bead on the great parikrama that threads the twelve forests around the dham.

What is Bhadravan?

Bhadravan is one of the twelve forests - bhadra meaning auspicious or gentle - a grove of the leela on the southern arc of the vans. Like most of the twelve, it is now largely a settlement with its shrine and tank rather than a forest. It is honoured among the vans on the great parikrama, its leela kept in the local telling.

Who was Shridama of Bhandirvan?

Shridama was one of Krishna's most beloved cowherd-friends (sakhas), associated especially with Bhandirvan. In the cowherd-boys' games and the leelas of the forests, Shridama is a constant, dear companion of Krishna. Bhandirvan is remembered as his grove, a place of the tender friendship between Krishna and the gopas amid the play of the great banyan-forest.

What is the Venu Kup?

The Venu Kup is a sacred well (kup) at Bhandirvan, associated with Krishna's flute (venu). It is among the holy spots of that storied grove, alongside the great Bhandir banyan. Such sacred wells dot the leela-landscape of Braj, each tied to a pastime; the Venu Kup keeps the memory of Krishna's music in the forest of his friend Shridama.

What is Tulsi Vivah?

Tulsi Vivah is the ceremonial marriage of the tulsi plant (Vrinda Devi) to Krishna, celebrated each year in Kartik, which traditionally opens the wedding season. In Braj, where tulsi is the grove-goddess herself, it is a beloved festival. It honours Vrinda Devi, guardian of the lovers' grove for whom Vrindavan is named.

Why is tulsi a deity in Braj?

Because tulsi is Vrinda Devi personified - the grove-goddess, guardian of Vrindavan and arranger of Radha and Krishna's meetings. In Braj, tulsi is no mere plant but a deity: worshipped in the courtyard tulsi-chaura, worn as the tulsi-mala of Vaishnava initiation and married to Krishna at Tulsi Vivah. The whole forest-land of Braj is, in a sense, her sacred domain.

What is Kameshwar Mahadev?

Kameshwar Mahadev is the guardian Shiva shrine of Kamyavan (Kaman) - kameshwar, "lord of desires," fitting for the van called "the fulfiller of desires." As across Braj, Shiva stands guard over Krishna's land, here at the Rajasthan-side van. It is among Kaman's cluster of shrines, with Vimal Kund, Dharm Kund and the Chaurasi Khamba, on the Adhik Maas parikrama.

What is the story of Dhruva at Madhuvan?

At Madhuvan, the child-prince Dhruva performed his great tapasya (penance), seeking the Lord with such single-minded devotion that he won Vishnu's darshan and became the unmoving Pole Star (Dhruva-tara). His story, set in this van, is one of the great examples of a child's unshakable devotion. Madhuvan keeps the memory of Dhruva's penance alongside that of the demon Madhu.

What is the Dhenukasura leela at Talvan?

At Talvan, the palm-grove, the donkey-demon Dhenukasura and his herd guarded the sweet tal (palm) fruit, barring the cowherds. Balarama, Krishna's mighty elder brother, seized Dhenukasura and hurled him into the palm-trees, killing him and freed the grove and its fruit for the cowherd-boys. It is a celebrated leela of Balarama's strength, kept in Talvan's name (today the village of Tarsi).

What are upvans?

Upvans are the sub-forests of Braj - the lesser groves beyond the principal twelve (Dwadash Van). Their lists differ by text even more than the twelve do. Together with the twelve vans, they fill out Braj's sacred forest-geography, each an upvan tied to some pastime or saint. A good Brajwasi knows the twelve well and treats the shifting upvan lists with grace.

Can I do the van parikrama in stages?

Yes - many pilgrims walk or drive the 84-Kos parikrama in stages over different visits, rather than the full circuit at once. One can honour a cluster of vans on each trip - the Govardhan groves, the Barsana-Nandgaon groves, the Gokul-side, Kaman - building up the whole over time. A guide can plan a sensible stage that honours the key groves on each visit.

What is the best time to visit the vans?

October to March is the most comfortable season for the vans and the parikrama, avoiding the fierce heat. Kartik is especially beautiful and devotional and Adhik Maas (when it falls) is the great parikrama season, above all for Kaman. Avoid the midday summer heat on the rural, often-remote groves.

How do the vans relate to Krishna the cowherd?

Intimately - the vans were the grazing-grounds and playgrounds of Krishna the cowherd (Gopala) and his friends and cows. In these forests he tended the herds, played his flute, fought the demons that menaced the cattle (Dhenukasura, Lohajangha) and danced the Raas. The vans are, quite simply, where the cowherd Lord lived his leela - the green world of Braj's pastoral devotion.

What is the significance of Braj's sacred groves?

The vans are the forest-land of Krishna's leela - twelve sacred groves (and many more) around which all Braj is organised, each holding a pastime: Dhruva's penance, Balarama's strength, the truthful cow, the secret marriage. Though most are now villages, the name preserves the memory and the holiness. To honour the vans is to honour the whole green, story-filled land of Krishna's play.

Sacred Forest (Vana)	Primary Temple / Sacred Spot	Morning Timings	Evening Timings	Practical Travel Note
1. Madhuvan	Shatrughna & Dhruva Narayan Temple	06:00 AM – 11:00 AM	04:00 PM – 09:00 PM	Best visited early morning; peaceful atmosphere.
2. Talvan	Baldev (Balarama) Temple	07:00 AM – 12:00 PM	04:00 PM – 08:00 PM	Located in Tarsi village; ancient palm trees remain nearby.
3. Kumudvan	Kapileshwar Mahadev & Padma Kund	06:30 AM – 12:00 PM	04:30 PM – 08:30 PM	Forest remains accessible throughout the day; temple closes in the afternoon.
4. Bahulavan	Bahula Cow Temple & Sankarshan Kund	07:00 AM – 12:00 PM	04:00 PM – 08:00 PM	Famous for the legend of the devoted cow Bahula.
5. Kamyavan (Kaman)	Radha Gokulananda & Chaurasi Khamba	08:00 AM – 12:00 PM	05:00 PM – 08:00 PM	Located in Rajasthan; includes Vimal Kund and the historic Chaurasi Khamba.
6. Khadiravan	Sri Khadir Bihari Ji Temple	07:00 AM – 12:00 PM	04:00 PM – 08:00 PM	Associated with the slaying of Bakasura.
7. Vrindavan	Banke Bihari & Radha Raman Temples	07:30 AM – 12:00 PM	04:30 PM – 08:30 PM	Midday closure observed; heavy evening crowds.
8. Bhadravan	Bhadra Bihari Ji Temple	07:00 AM – 12:00 PM	04:00 PM – 08:00 PM	Located across the Yamuna River; peaceful surroundings.
9. Bhandirvan	Bhandir Vat (Radha-Krishna Marriage Site)	06:00 AM – 12:00 PM	04:00 PM – 08:00 PM	Sacred banyan tree area remains accessible throughout the day.
10. Belvan	Lakshmi Devi Temple	06:00 AM – 12:00 PM	04:00 PM – 08:30 PM	Famous for Khichdi Prasad; experiences heavy crowds on Thursdays.
11. Lohvan	Lohajangha Devi & Gopi Kuan	07:00 AM – 12:00 PM	04:00 PM – 08:00 PM	Revered for Krishna's childhood hide-and-seek pastimes.
12. Mahavan	Chanti Palna & Raman Reti	06:00 AM – 12:00 PM	04:00 PM – 09:00 PM	Raman Reti Ashram remains open slightly later than other sites.

Sacred Forest	Spiritual Importance
Madhuvan	Associated with Dhruva Maharaj's penance and Lord Rama's brother Shatrughna.
Talvan	The site where Lord Balarama defeated the demon Dhenukasura.
Kumudvan	Famous for lotus-filled ponds and Krishna's playful pastimes.
Bahulavan	Celebrated for the story of the faithful cow Bahula.
Kamyavan	One of the largest and most spiritually significant forests of Braj.
Khadiravan	Associated with Krishna's defeat of Bakasura.
Vrindavan	The principal center of Radha-Krishna's divine Raas and devotional traditions.
Bhadravan	A peaceful forest associated with Krishna's cowherd pastimes.
Bhandirvan	Traditionally regarded as the site of the divine marriage of Radha and Krishna.
Belvan	Dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi's penance for entering the Raas Leela.
Lohvan	Connected to Krishna's childhood sports and divine games.
Mahavan	Includes Gokul and Raman Reti, where Krishna spent much of his early childhood.

Season / Months	Best For	What to Expect
October – March (Winter)	Comfortable pilgrimage and parikrama	Pleasant temperatures between 10°C and 25°C, ideal for walking through forests, performing parikrama, and exploring rural Braj.
July – September (Monsoon)	Spiritual atmosphere and greenery	Forests become lush green, making this the traditional season for the Braj 84 Kos Yatra and Jhulan festivals.
April – June (Summer)	Early morning darshan only	Temperatures often exceed 40°C, making daytime exploration physically demanding.

Season	Visitor Experience	Recommendation
Winter (October – March)	Pleasant weather, comfortable walking conditions, and clear pilgrimage routes	Highly Recommended
Monsoon (July – September)	Beautiful greenery and vibrant spiritual festivals	Recommended with precautions
Summer (April – June)	Extreme heat and difficult outdoor conditions	Avoid except for early morning visits

Sacred Forest	Best Festival / Occasion	Approximate Month
Madhuvan	Dhruva Teej	August – September
Talvan	Baldeo Chhath (Appearance of Lord Balarama)	August – September
Kumudvan	Phool Bangla Festival	Summer Evenings
Bahulavan	Bahula Chauth	August – September
Kamyavan	Govardhan Puja & Annakut	October – November
Khadiravan	Gopa Ashtami	October – November
Vrindavan	Janmashtami & Braj Holi	August/September & February/March
Bhadravan	Gopa Ashtami	October – November
Bhandirvan	Radha-Krishna Marriage Festival	Dates vary annually
Belvan	Paush Purnima	January
Lohvan	Janmashtami Celebrations	August – September
Mahavan	Raman Reti Sand Festival	Winter Months

The Sacred Groves of Braj: The Twelve Forests (Dwadash Van), Bhandirvan, Kamyavan & More - A Complete Guide

Temple at a Glance

Table of Contents

Temple Visitor Guide

Darshan Timings

Spiritual Significance of the Dwadash Vanas

Visitor Tips

Best Time to Visit

Seasonal Travel Advice

Seasonal Highlights

Major Festivals of the 12 Sacred Forests of Braj